By Dr. Patrick Moser
ISBN-10: 0824831551
ISBN-13: 9780824831554
One thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled lengthy wood forums into the sea, sleek surfers have persevered this tradition, which has lately been remodeled right into a international undefined. Pacific Passages brings jointly 4 centuries of writing approximately browsing, the main finished choice of Polynesian and Western views at the historical past and tradition of a recreation at the moment loved through hundreds of thousands of individuals around the globe. The tales start with Hawaiian legends and chants and are by way of the journals of explorers; the go back and forth narratives of missionaries and luminaries reminiscent of Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London; and the modern observations of Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis. Readers keep on with the old transformation of surfing's picture throughout the centuries: from Polynesian myths of affection to Western debts of horror and exoticism within the eighteenth and 19th centuries, to trendy representations of browsing as a character-building task in pre-World-War II California and the essential expression of disaffected adolescence. They discover the sport's most up-to-date tendencies through writers and cultural critics, whose insights into expertise, festival, gender, background, and globalism show how browsing affects a few of modern so much urgent social issues. Aided via informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages offer perception into the values and beliefs of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how every one has altered and been altered through surfing--and how the game itself has proven an grand skill during the centuries to outlive, adapt, and prosper.
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Additional resources for Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing
Sample text
Mehe anuenue la ka papa, The footprints Kamawa a ka wawae Of man are seen round about, O ke kanaka lewa o ka poai, They are erased by the first waves of the Ke helula ia ka nalu mua a kau o rainy season, Hooilo They are washed out by the waves. Ke ooki aku la i ka nalu When the light [of the sun] bursts forth Makui o Pohakea The boards of the women are taken out Lilo ka papa o na Wahine * Kohalâ-lele: “leaping whale” (Place Names, 115). * I ka iliki ia eke kai o Aawa Put away [the boards] in the houses of the Hahao a aku i hale o ka makua parents, The boards of the chiefs of Kaumelilani, Ka papa o ke alii o Kaumelilani Of Keaka, of Kaumelilani, O Keaka o Kaumelilani Of Kahili [chief] of Maui, O kahili o Maui Of Ku who goes about, who shows his light O Ku hele nui lele malama In the sky, of Kahili, of Lelekoni, O ka lani, O kahili o Lelekoni Of Haakoa of the gentle face, of Ohaakoa i maka wali o Ku-kainaina, Kukainaina Of Umalei, the husband, O Umalei ke kane, Of Umauma the wife, O Umauma la ka wahine Of the followers of Kane-epu-lono, O ka nui Kaneepulono The chief, of whose wave we speak.
The following mele inoa, as described by Beamer, comes from the Puna district of Hawai‘i and celebrates the surfing exploits of William Charles Lunalilo, king of Hawai‘i (ruled 1873–1874). Chant type: Mele Inoa (name) Chant style: Kânaenae (prayerful) Hula type: Hula Noho Kânaenae (prayerful), Hula ‘Ulî‘ulî (gourd rattle), Hula type: Hula ‘Ili‘ili (pebbles)* * Hula ‘Ili‘ili: “In the hula iliili pebbles (iliili) are held in the hand and struck together as gestures follow the words of the chant” (Barrère, Hula: Historical Perspectives, 93).
Yes,” she answered. She stood up, naked. The mo‘i removed his kihei shoulder covering and wrapped it around her as a pa‘u** and took her to a kapu place. That was the beginning of her life as the ali‘i wahine mo‘i and she married (ho‘ao mare) the mo‘i Kalamakua. * ali‘i nui: high chief. ** pâ‘û: a woman’s skirt. 22 | samuel mânaiakalani kamakau chapter 2 “The Story of Laie-i-ka-wai” (1888) King David Kalâkaua 1836–1891 Roland M. Daggett 4 1831–1901 The following excerpt derives from a popular romance that follows the adventures of twin sisters—Lâ‘ie-i-ka-wai (“Lâ‘ie in the water”) and Lâ‘ie-lohelohe (“the drooping pandanus vine”)—who must be separated and hidden at birth to protect them from a father who has vowed to let no daughters live until his wife bears him a son.
Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing by Dr. Patrick Moser
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